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Dyrhólaey, Iceland, Reynisdrangar, Selfoss, Sjellandfoss, Uncategorized, Vik, WOW Airlines

Vik to Selfoss – Wind Storms & The Search for a Non-Existent Waterfall

The view from Dyrhólaey

Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar

Today dawns relatively clear, but the forecast calls for high winds. We’re in no hurry to get moving from the cozy Carina Guesthouse, but as we’re eating breakfast, a beautiful sunrise begins to unveil through the dining room windows. We chug down the rest of our coffee and scarf down a few bites of delicious homemade bread and hit the road.

We decide to head straight to Dyrhólaey to photograph the unique rock formations that sit off the coast here, and then we’ll head back to town for the views from Vik’s hilltop church looking east. Fortunately, the winds have not picked up too much just yet, and with the right gear, we’re able to photograph for a good two hours without freezing.

Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar

All of what we have seen so far in Iceland has been jaw-droppingly beautiful, but there’s something special about Vik and Dyrhólaey. Large basalt rock cliffs drop down to a long black sand beach, and off in the distance, three jagged rock structures jut out of the ocean. Closer in shore is a larger lone rock structure, and the high tide swirls around it. Soft light stays with us for most of the morning, and by noon, we feel we’re content with what we’ve captured.

Reynisdrangar rocks as seen from Vik

Reynisdrangar rocks as seen from Vik

We drive the 15 minutes back to downtown Vik, pull into a gas station for a hot chocolate break, and see a pathway leading out to a separate beach. Here we have an eastward view of the craggy coastline, but we’re less protected from the elements, and as we’re trying to capture this new angle, we’re literally being sandblasted. I can feel the black sand hitting the back of my neck, and as this is happening, I look up to see Bill’s tripod being blown over by a gale force wind gust. We decide to hightail it to the car with our heads down to avoid more sandblasts.

We do make one last stop before leaving Vik, and that’s at the hilltop church where we’re afforded views of the entire, yet small town of Vik and the coastline below. We park the car off to the side and get out to snap a few pictures of the view. The parking lot is like a skating rink and the wind gusts are so strong, I have a hard time not sliding away. Luckily I grab on to the trunk of the car to stop myself. Right here is an indication of how our afternoon drive will play out.

Vik’s hilltop church

The winds are reaching 60-65mph + when we leave Vik, and road conditions are less than ideal. We plug in Selfoss to the GPS and begin the 1 1/2-hour drive. We’ve had little sunlight or warmth so far today, so patches of ice can still be found in places and the wind is vicious. Not only are the winds whipping snow across the roadways, they are also so fierce that it’s difficult to keep the car from veering. I’m driving now and it’s my turn to have a death grip on the wheel.

We’re no more than 20 minutes from Vik, when I hit a patch of ice, panic, hit the breaks and begin sliding from one side of the road to the other. At one point, I’m sure we’re going to hit one of the yellow posts on the right side of the road, and the next moment, I’m certain we’re going to collide with the white SUV heading towards us from the other direction. By the grace of God, I right the car, and Bill and I look at each other with white faces. How the hell did we not just die??? or at least seriously damage the vehicle??

A winter wonderland at Seljalandsfoss

I’m a bit weak and wobbly now, so we decide to pull over at Skogafoss. Unfortunately, it’s just too cold and windy to even consider leaving the car for pictures. We pull into a parking lot to turn around and watch as other travelers skate their way to and from their cars. Back on the road, we begin to drive parallel to a fjord, and this offers us some sort of protection from the wind at times.


Despite wanting to be in Selfoss for sunset, we know we can’t hurry, so when we pass Seljalandsfoss, we decide to stop for some daylight pictures. Pathways are slick and the grass in front of the waterfall is covered in ice crystals. The wind is whipping the falls, creating a mist that is (again) soaking the pathway that leads behind. We now know better than to attempt to hike up. (We’ll save that for a summer trip!) It’s a beautiful scene though, and at 3:30 the entire landscape surrounding us is glowing gold.

Our room at Garun Heidmork, Selfoss

Conscious of the time, we get back in the car to finish the drive to Selfoss. We have a hostel booked here for the night and decide to photograph Selfoss waterfall tonight and Gulfoss at sunrise. However, as we approach Selfoss, we realize that Selfoss waterfall isn’t in the city of Selfoss at all. It’s not even close. It’s about seven hours away in the northeastern part of the country. Ok, epic travel planning fail, but I’m certain we’re not the first people to make this mistake!

We still have tomorrow morning to photograph Gulfoss and Geysir and we look at tonight as a night to just chill out. We check into the lovely Guesthouse Garun Heidmork, which is a three-story home with a total of about seven rooms and a beautifully furnished kitchen. We make our way up to the attic apartment, dump our backpacks and head out to find food for dinner. When we return later that evening, the road outside is a sheet of ice, and the wind is so fierce that the attic room we’re sleeping in is creaking. We fall asleep to this unsettling noise, wondering what our last day of exploring holds for us!

glaciers, Iceland, Jokulsarlon, Ring Road, Skaftafell, Svartifoss, Vik, WOW Airlines

Eastern Iceland: Jokulsarlon, Skaftafell & Svartifoss


Breakfast at Kálfafellsstadur

Despite a late night, we are up super early and get ready and packed up for the day. We head upstairs and Thora has prepared a full homemade breakfast, complete with waffles and homemade jams! We enjoy what is becoming our only sit down meal of the day, thank Thora for her hospitality and head out for Jokulsarlon.



At 8:30, there is already light on the horizon, and it looks like the day will dawn clear. Unfortunately, my camera is not working, but Bill has lent me his spare camera body which is compatible with my lenses. (I can’t imagine how depressing the rest of the trip would be without a camera, and I’m so thankful to be able to continue to shoot!)



As we drive west along the ring road back to the lagoon, the sun is rising to our left and the moon is setting to our right. It is the last few days of the “super moon” and we watch as a huge giant white ball drops behind the fjords. We park up at the lagoon but immediately walk over to the black sand beach, where chunks of icebergs are being lashed by water in the wave break. Sunrise is continuing behind, making the ice glow various shades of gold, violet, pink and blue.



Sunrise at Jokulsarlon

We spend well over two hours shooting stills and video here – we just can’t get enough of this natural, unique beauty!

We head back over to the lagoon and grab a hot chocolate at the little cafe and then inquire about a boat ride for later in the afternoon. Our plan is to head to Skaftafell National park to photograph Svartifoss and then head back to Jokulsarlon for a boat tour and sunset. Unfortunately, we find out that boats aren’t operating today due to too much ice debris in the lagoon.



We make our way to Skaftafell National Park. which is about a 45-minute drive. Skaftafell, or rather Vatnajökull National Park is home to the Vatnajökull Glacier, but we have come to photograph Svartifoss, a waterfall that sits 1.8km into the park. We begin the hike up and arrive around 2:00. The waterfall is surrounded by basalt rock columns that give me the feeling we’re peering into the center of the earth. Surrounding rocks and shrubbery are covered in a layer of white, frozen mist.

We spend about 1 1/2 hours shooting here, playing with long exposure and neutral density, and we don’t realize how much time has passed. We need to hurry if we want to make it back to Jokulsarlon for sunset. On the hike back down, the light is perfect though, and I want to stop and savor it and take more pictures. Behind us Vatnajökull glacier is brilliant white against an intense blue afternoon sky. To our right are fjords in the distance and bare birch trees, and below us the land is flat and white, and little rivulets lead out to the ocean ahead.


Jokulsarlon – just after sunset

By 3:45, we are back in the car and heading to Jokulsarlon, but we know we’ve missed the best of the light. We kick ourselves for not leaving earlier, and from the car, we watch as the sun sets to our right. At the lagoon, it’s still a pretty picture, and we decide to head on to Vik with the goal of getting there in time to have a relaxing evening, and maybe even dinner!


Foss á Siðu

We begin the two-hour drive, making one stop at Foss á Siðu to photograph the falls at night. Tonight is the clearest we’ve seen the skies since arriving, and we’re able to catch a few shooting stars.  Temps are dropping, so we head back to the car and continue on to Vik, arriving at Carina Guesthouse around 8pm.


Dinner at Suður-Vík

We get checked in and decide as we haven’t had a proper dinner since arriving in Iceland, we should treat ourselves. We head over to Suður-Vík Restaurant for a traditional dinner of Arctic Char and Rib Eye, accompanied with a cauliflower soup and homemade bread. After standing out in the cold all day, the food is warming us through, but making us sleepy!  We pay up and head back to the guesthouse, and as we leave the restaurant, we get a view of another almost supermoon rising above Vik’s church on the hilltop in the distance.

Iceland, Northern Lights, Skaftafell, Vik

Rain, Rainbows, and The Elusive Northern Lights

Many people have asked me why I chose to travel to Iceland, specifically at this time of year, and initially, one of the main reasons I wanted to travel here was to have the opportunity to see the aurora borealis, more commonly known as the northern lights. We had been closely monitoring the weather forecast since leaving Reykjavik, hoping for clear nights, and Carolyn had been checking a website that actually included a northern lights forecast. It wasn’t looking too promising. However, we were pretty certain that we had seen a glimmer of glowing green light in the sky last night before the impending rain set in, so we remained optimistic…

The small village of Vik

We woke up early to a dreary and windy morning in Vik. After a hearty breakfast and couple cups of coffee at Nordur Vik Hostel, we decide not to let the sideways rain keep us inside anymore, so we pack up the compact car and backtrack 15 kilometers west to Dryholaey, a secluded black sand beach, known for its epic views of the tall rock formations that jut out of the ocean in neighboring Vik.

We hope to get some good photographs in the early morning sunlight, but the weather has different plans for us, and after nearly getting blown off the cliffs at Dryholaey (literally) we jump back in the car, bless the heated seats and head back to the main road. In a matter of minutes, the rain clears and the surrounding hills are bathed in a warm golden light. We look up to a beautiful full rainbow in the sky ahead of us. Iceland is continuing to amaze me. We drive back through Vik and are able to see the surrounding landscape in a new light.

From Vik, we drive a couple of hours through never-ending moss covered lava fields. The green carpeted lava is contrasted with a brilliant blue sky, and Jokulsarlon glacier sits majestically in the background. This scene rolls on for miles. We pass the occasional village, which might be comprised of a cluster of homes, but for the most part, we are in the middle of nowhere.  We arrive at Skaftafell National Park with intentions of hiking to Svartifoss, one of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls, but we needed some fuel first. Unfortunately, there’s not much to choose from in the way of food, so we drive 5 km further to a gourmet gas station cafe. Lunch consists of rye bread, camembert cheese and pepperoni slices, all purchased on site. This type of lunch is not unheard of in this part of the country, where restaurants and cafes are scarce, but it may cost you as much as a gourmet sit-down dinner in Reykjavik.

We head back to Skaftafell and begin the 90-minute round trip hike to the falls. We are blessed with clear skies and the light throughout the entire day is like end of day light. Since the sun never fully rises, the light is soft and illuminating – a photographer’s dream – and another great reason to travel to Iceland in the off-season.

Svartifoss is not the tallest or most powerful waterfall I’ve seen in Iceland, but the surrounding rock formations are what make it unique. The waterfall cuts through the middle of teeth-like rock formations that look like they give way into the center of the earth, a very visually intriguing setting.

Svartifoss Waterfall in Skaftafell National Park

We begin our hike back down and decide to take the park ranger’s advice to stay in Hali, a place she says is a “nice village,” where we can find a guesthouse and a good meal. Hali can’t be found on the map, or in the guidebook for that matter, but we go with the friendly ranger’s suggestion. We’ve been lucky so far today, and we’re putting it out there that the good karma will continue. We are also being overly optimistic about our chances to see the northern lights later on.

We spend the afternoon driving parallel to Jokulsarlon, and about 5 kilometers from Hali, we spot the glacial lagoon, which is just breathtaking. We have plans to explore in the morning, so we continue to Hali to get there before dark.

Contemplating some light reading.

Hali is a unique place. It’s tough to even call it a village, so let’s just say it’s a farm. It’s the birthplace of Porberger Porbarson, an important literary figure in Iceland. To commemorate his works and honor the place where he was born, a museum and restaurant have been constructed. Appropriately enough, the outside is built with larger than life books, which represent his collection of works. We get checked in and sit down at the restaurant for a meal of locally caught smoked Arctic Char, complete with Chilean sauvignon blanc.

After a couple of glasses of wine, we decide to check out the sky again, and we are pretty certain that we can see a glow from behind the fjord in the distance. Since there is currently a new moon, we know there’s no moonlight and there are no surrounding towns to speak of, so we grab our cameras, bundle up and head back to the glacial lagoon. When we arrive, there are a few others camped out hoping to get their epic shot of the green glow, but slowly, one by one, people start to leave.

We take a few shots though, and what you can’t see with the naked eye, you can definitely capture with a camera lens. A soft green hue is growing in the sky above. A few moments later, a friendly Japanese traveler walks over to where we are and says that if we climb over the hill, we will have more complete views of the lights. We take his advice and set up camp with three others. Teeth chattering and trying to operate our cameras with frozen hands, slowly, we begin to see a light show unfold. What starts as a green ribbon of light across the sky, slowly turns into a row of four or five peaks that shoot up from the fjord and disappear into a star-filled sky. It’s subtle but it’s there, and the longer we stay, the more adjusted our eyes become. We are able to capture our first shots of the northern lights! Giddy with excitement, but beginning to feel the cold, we head back to the car after about two hours and blast ourselves with heat all the way back to Hali.

Aurora Borealis, aka The Northern Lights, viewed from Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon

We toast the day with the last remaining sips of wine. What started out with wind and rain, ended with an epic day of  rainbows, waterfalls, glaciers and…the Northern Lights! Three days in, and I’m not sure how Iceland can get any better!

Geysir, Gulfoss, Iceland, Pingvellir, Reykjavik, Ring Road

Day 1 – The Golden Circle

Both needing more sleep, Carolyn and I sluggishly pack up and check out of the hostel in Reykjavik, not before chugging two cups of coffee each. We walk across the street to ProCar, and within a matter of 10 minutes, we are proud renters of a silver Nissan Mica compact car. It will serve as our wheels for the next four days as we circle Iceland’s ring road, Route 1.

A small church on the outskirts of Reykjavik
We head in the direction of the Golden Circle, which is made up of three main sights, Pingvellir (pronounced Thingvellir) National Park, Geysir and Gulfoss. We head first to Pingvellir, driving next to ThingvallavatnIceland’s largest lake, 83 square kilometers!
We arrive at the park and hike up to a waterfall before standing in the place where according to history, parliament was first formed. This is the site where Iceland was declared to be a free republic in 1944, and where their Independence Day is still celebrated today. This is one of the most historically important places in the country. We are also starting to get a sense of why they say Iceland is “a place of lonely beauty.” We seem to be in the middle of nowhere.
Pingvellir National Park


Only 30 minutes away, after driving through remote farmlands, fields of horses and rolling hills, we come to the small village of Geysir. The “village” is actually a gift shop and restaurant, and to the left is a small looped walking trail around three geysers. The most active is “Strokkur,” which erupts with force every 5 minutes or so, shooting water and steam 30 meters up into the sky.  

From Geysir, it’s literally a stones throw to Gulfoss, one of Iceland’s most well-known waterfalls. I was expecting something tall and beautiful, but the roar of water was audible from the parking lot.

Gulfoss is considered to be Iceland’s Niagra Falls, and as we approach, I understood why. We stand in awe as we watch water descend first from an upper terrace of fall to a lower section before crashing into a riverbed below with such unbelievable force. The mist rising from the falls keeps creating a small rainbow above us.

End of day rainbows over Gulfoss

From Gulfoss, we don’t have much daylight left, so we begin our drive to Vik, where we are spending the night. The skies are clear the entire drive and we hope for a chance to see the northern lights, but as we get closer to the seaside town of Vik, the rain clouds are impending and slowly those chances dwindle away.

We check into a cozy hostel, Nordur Vik, and make plans to meet Doruk and Cha in town for dinner, as they are driving back from their trip to the glacial lagoon. We decide to meet at Cafe Puffin… I just hope there is more to the menu than the name implies…