Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances, pilgrimage, Spain

September 16th, Day15: Itero de la Vega to Villalcazar de Siga

Sunrise near Itero de la Vega

Georgie’s group leaves the albergue at 4 a.m. for a morning walk and stargaze. We are invited to join, but politely decline, so when we do finally have our coffee and get on the road, we are the last ones to leave. It’s a pretty walk out of town, relatively flat with rolling hills either side of us. But, it’s noticeably chilly until the sun rising behind us creeps up and provides our backs with a little bit of warmth.

We walk 8 kilometers to the town of Boadilla, where we stop for a proper breakfast. We find a charming albergue with a courtyard café. There’s a swimming pool, and abstract metal structures decorate the garden. We order tortilla de patatas and coffees and talk to Seamus (Michael from Chicago) and his friend who has been nicknamed, ‘Baby Dave.’

We run into ‘Laura with the aura’ and Adam from Woodstock, and spend the better part of an hour, eating and chatting. We’re in no real hurry to move on. Still, we plod on through to Fromista, walking parallel to an irrigation canal on our right and farmlands to our left.

We stop in Fromista around Noon, and Tammy is in a reasonable amount of pain. Still, we think after a rest we will be able to push on. We park ourselves on a bench outside a supermarket and I alone make three trips inside. First, for an immediate snack, then, to pick up picnic supplies, and lastly, to scope out the hat selection. The afternoon heat is offensive and my face is turning the shade of a true Spaniard. I don’t find a Camino-appropriate hat though.

We have now killed another hour, but leave town with renewed energy. As I walk along the unshaded, gravel path leaving Fromista, Fun’s ‘Carry On’ song plays in my ears, “May your path be the sound of your feet upon the ground… Carry On.”

Picnic lunch

After two hours of walking on a straight, flat, hot gravel path, we reach a village comprised of one street, one restaurant and no houses that I can see. A river sits off to the left and we perch ourselves on the brick wall above for a picnic. Laura and Adam have done the same, so we share lunch with them – bread, chorizo, blue cheese, fruit and a very small bottle of vino tinto.

The afternoon walk is slightly cooler and shorter, and I’m thankful as I have a nagging pain in my shin that is sporadically shooting up my leg. I swap to flip flops to see if that will help relieve the pain, and as I’m changing shoes, I look over to see a hat hanging off a wooden post. The hat isn’t in great condition, in fact, it looks as if someone has left it for good. I decide it will be perfect to keep the sun off my head, face and shoulders.

Slightly lost in translation.

With flip flops on and a new hat, we walk the last 2 km to Villalcazar.  We inquire about rooms at the café in the town center, and we’re pointed in the direction of a donativo. A heavy set lady, who speaks fluent French, checks us in, gets us water and explains that they have just fumigated as a pilgrim brought an infestation of bed bugs from Boadilla. We are given blue plastic bags to keep our backpacks in, and I feel a little weary about staying here.

Villalcazar de Siga.

Still, we make our way upstairs and into the dorm room, and as the door opens, we see Lynne sitting on a bottom bunk. Her face shows the kind of day she has had, and we learn she is the pilgrim who was attacked by bed bugs the previous night and she has been blamed for bringing them here. We haven’t seen Lynne in days, and I can tell she is embarrassed and upset.

We get settled in and meet our other roommates, five guys from Italy, who are biking the camino. They have just finished showering and seem to like to wear nothing more than their underwear as they rub themselves down with muscle relaxing gels and lotions, occasionally looking up to smile at us. Surely, this will cheer Lynne, and the rest of us up.

I head over to the café, and sit down at a table facing the old church to write and enjoy the end of day sunlight. I wait for Lynne and Tammy to join, but after a while get concerned they haven’t shown up yet. I head back to the donativo and find them, and we all head for dinner. I find out it is the anniversary of Lynne’s father’s death. What a day this poor girl has had! After dinner, we order a beer, Lynne’s father’s drink of choice and we toast to him.

We head back to the albergue, and get ready for bed… I tell Lynne to sleep well and sleep off the day. She admits she’s so nervous about waking up with welts in the morning. I climb into my bottom bunk and try to drift off to sleep. The last things I remember are feeling itchy and hearing Tammy say she’s nervous about falling off of the narrow top bunk. I then sleep until morning.

Previous Post Next Post

You Might Also Like